Will Sew 4 Food

Sewing Lessons 101~ How To Repair A Blind Hem

2011-08-19T14:02:00.000-07:00

If you aren't familiar with the term 'blind hem' it is also known as an invisible hem or hand hem. These days most of our clothing is factory made and hems that are made this way are typically done using a blind hemmer. I have used these when I was working in a tailor shop and they are a dream. A pant hem can be completed in under a minute. That's FAST! The stitches are made using a single thread and the completed process creates a chain stitch that is secure but invisible on the right side of the fabric. If you possess a blind hemmer you don't need this tutorial, but for the rest of us here is how to repair a blind hem that has come out OR stitch an entire hem by hand if you don't want to topstitch your hem on a sewing machine.

For the sake of practicality I will treat this as a repair. *please note that the photos will follow the instructions.

To start, select the color of thread that is closest to the color of your garment. That way should you make a stitch a bit bigger and it shows through to the right side it will be camouflaged in the fabric. Select a sewing needle that is on the smaller side. A smaller needle will make it easier for you to make a smaller stitch. And lastly always, ALWAYS sew your hand hems using a single thread. Most of us were taught to thread the needle and pull the tails even and make a knot. If that is how you were taught to hem I want you to unlearn that system. Why? First, 2 threads, especially when knotted tend to twist as you are stitching and they can bunch up and knot. Second, 2 threads are bulky and you want the stitch to be invisible. Thread these days is very strong and yes, one thread will adequately hold your hem together. Trust me on this. I had a tailoring business for decades and have done hundreds of hems this way. So thread up your needle and pull the thread through but leave one tail longer than the other. And do NOT make a knot. Why? A knot can show through on the right side especially if the fabric is sheer or silky.

Here is how to secure your thread to your hem. (If you are repairing a hem that is only partially open, make sure to secure your thread an inch or so into the area that is still hemmed so as to secure any stitching 'ends' of the original hem. Once you sew the loose part, continue to stitch another 1" into the other side of the original hem. Make sense? If not, contact me.)
Insert the needle into the hem from the underside of the hem allowance no more than a quarter of an inch down from the top. Leave a tail of about 1". Re-insert the needle into the same hole and pull ALMOST all the way through. Before you tighten that stitch down, feed the needle into the loop you have created and THEN pull all the way through. Repeat this once more and your thread will be secured to the hem allowance without a bulky knot. You can trim the tail off or tuck it into the hem.

After securing your thread, insert the needle about 1/2" to the right of the knot right below the serging. *Most garments these days have serged edges but some skirts will have hem tape or some other kind of finishing edge. If your hem has nothing or a wide hem tape etc, make your stitches no deeper than 1/2". Insert your needle from right to left making a stitch no bigger than 1/4" and ONLY going through the hem allowance. You don't want this stitch to go through to the front of the fabric.

Next pull the thread all the way through so it lays flat on the hem. To make the next stitch, insert the needle about 1/2" to the right immediately ABOVE the serging being careful to only pick up a couple of the threads of the fabric. This is what will make the hem blind. If you 'dig' too deep with the needle the thread will show through. Picking up 2 or 3 threads on the back of the fabric Will secure the hem. Pull the thread all the way through so the thread lays nice and flat on the hem. Don't pull too tight or the hem will bunch. Then repeat these stitches all the way across.

Once you complete the stitching reinsert the needle into the last stitch to make a loop, without picking up the front of the fabric. Insert your needle into the loop and pull tight to make a knot. Do this a second time to secure and clip off the thread.

Here is what your hem should look like. Note that I used heavy weight black thread on my fabric and by just picking up 2 threads on the underside the hem barely shows. Had I used the same color as the fabric it would have been totally undetectable.

This is a fast and easy repair. It is secure and by using the "X stitch" configuration it allows the hem to have an 'ease' to it making it look smooth and professional.

Hope this helps you out the next time one of your hems lets loose. With just a few neatly made, well placed stitches you can be up and running.

I am thinking for my next tutorial I will show you a few different ways to repair tears and split seams. There are so many things that can cause us to have 'wardrobe malfunctions' and I have repaired just about everything that can go wrong from T-shirt seam allowances, to corner tears in shirts, to snags/holes in knits. I will compile some of the most common problems and let you know how I have repaired these things through the years.

Til next time~ :)

Another Sewing Lesson~ How To sew A Jean Hem

2011-06-27T17:59:00.000-07:00

If you have a sewing machine and a few basic tools it is very easy to hem those jeans that are too long and residing in your closet waiting to be worn. You can save yourself time and cash doing this yourself and you won't even need someone to pin them for you if you follow these instructions. BUT before diving into your newly acquired skill, go NOW and pre-wash/dry those pants IF you haven't yet done so. New jeans will shrink as will most clothing made from cotton. I advise ALWAYS pre-washing ANYTHING new (or as yet un-laundered) that is going to be altered in any way, but especially pants. Why? Because how bad will you feel if you hem those pants and THEN wash them to find they have shrunk so much that now they are no longer too long, but too short?!?! Pre-washing. Veeerrrrrry Important!

Now that we have the laundering issue covered, here is what you will need to hem your pants;

Sewing machine
Ironing board and iron
Straight pins (2)
Seam ripper
Marking chalk
Ruler
Scissors

As with all my tutorials, I will write the descriptions immediately ABOVE the corresponding photos.

Put your pants on and the shoes (or height of shoe) that you intend to wear with them. *Why would this matter? Because if you plan to wear the pants with a flip flop but pin the pants while wearing a high heel or bulky boot, the length WILL be different once you slip into the flip flops. Wearing the right shoe makes for a more accurate fitting. IF you plan to wear the pants with lots of different shoes then try on different types and figure out the best length.

Also, check to make sure that the pants are located at the waist where you want them. Usually with jeans the fit is natural but some other types of pants can settle higher or lower at the waist. Just make sure they are positioned where you will actually be wearing them.

Stand facing a mirror so you can see your feet easily. Turn UNDER (to the inside) the excess length that you want hemmed and pin it with a straight pin. Stand up and recheck to make sure it is the length you want. This usually takes a couple tries to get it right as the length will shift as you bend over. Keep at it until you are pleased with the length. All you need is ONE pin at the center front.

To pin the back, do the same as above. You only need ONE pin on the back too. Do not worry about the sides. They will take care of themselves at the ironing board.

Generally the back of the hem should be a bit longer than the front. Not a lot. Maybe 1/4" to 3/8". A general rule of thumb is that the back hem should hit the top of the heel but if your shoes are very flat such as a sandal OR if you are wearing heels you may have different ideas about what is right for you. If wearing sandals or ballet flats you probably won't want your pants to drag. If wearing heels you might want to consider going longer as it creates the look of a longer leg and who doesn't want that? Bottom line- Do Whatever You Want. You will be the one to wear the pants so pin them where you want them. :)

Here I have one hem pinned and one still the original length. At 5'3" I hem a lotta pants!

You only need to pin ONE leg UNLESS your legs are two different lengths. If that is the case then you will have to pin both legs. Don't pin them both unless you have to as it is HARD to get them perfectly even. Especially when pinning them yourself. It is much easier to line them up on the ironing board and mark them than to try to pin them the same. *years and years of experience talking here...

(Before continuing I want to insert here that after I pin the one leg, I almost always rip out the existing hem stitching before heading to the ironing board. I use a seam ripper to remove the original stitching. The exception to this is when the pants are extra long and the existing hem doesn't interfere with the area of the new hem allowance. )

Once you are satisfied with your pinning and have removed the original hem if need be, lay your pants on the ironing board and line the inseam up with the outseam at the hem so they lay nice and neat. You can gently tug where the pins are at the front and back to pull the sides of the hem straight.

Next, remove the pins and press the hem in place. Flip it over and press the other side. You want the fold line to be very defined as this is your finished length and you will be using it to measure off the hem allowance.

Next, lay the unpressed leg on the ironing board (outseam-side DOWN on the board) and line the inseam up on top of the outseam. This helps to smooth the leg so that it lays flat as well as helping to line up the seams at the hem.

Lay the other pant leg on top of the leg on the board and line up all the seams so that the top leg is laying neatly on the bottom leg. *Also make sure to line up the 2 "layers" of the waistband so that it is even at the top of the pants. This is important since you will be marking the length of the unpressed leg by using the pressed one, and you want the waistband edges to be aligned with each other so nothing is 'off'.*

Once you have the legs laid neatly together with all the seams lined up, use the newly pressed-in hem as a guide and mark the unpressed leg. The newly drawn hemline below is the one closest to the chalk. The other 'white' line is the old hemline which is lighter due to the manufacturing process. Ignore it.

Once you have marked the hem, fold the excess under to the inside. As with the first leg, tugging at the front and back will straighten the sides of the hem at the seams. Press both sides well.

Once you have both hems pressed, pull the excess hem allowance out from the inside and press well to flatten the creases from the original hem. Using a ruler, measure FROM THE PRESSED HEM DOWN INTO THE HEM EXTENSION and mark at 1 1/4" all the way around the pant leg. Do this for both legs. * Yup. I know my ruler is upside down. It's how I roll. ;)

Next, cut on the line you just drew. Do Not cut on the fold line or you will have a raw edge where you want your finished hem to be. Cut off the excess material following the cutting line you just created. This is how it will look. *this is a good photo to point out that the lines you see in the hem extensions are the original stitching lines. Note how uneven the bottom leg is. This is WHY we always mark the unpinned leg using the pinned leg. Pant legs are often uneven or different lengths, even on the same pair. Experience speaking again.

Next, fold the cut edge to the inside to meet the hem crease and press. Do this all the way around on both legs.

Then, fold again so the raw edge is neatly tucked into the hem crease and press the hem.

Once you have pressed the hem all the way around you are ready to sew. But before doing that there are some considerations to this I would like to shed some light on. The pants in my example here are lightweight fabric. Most jeans are heavier and require some extra attention. When stitching through regular denim or other heavyweight fabric set your stitch length to the longest length on your machine and use a large needle. I like #16 or #18 needles for heavy fabrics. This will help accommodate the extra bulk. Another tip when sewing jeans is to take a hammer and pound the thick parts of the seams. The flat felled seams are especially thick and pounding them with a hammer will break down the fibers so the needle can sew through it easier. I also suggest using the handwheel on your machine to 'walk' the needle through these thick areas. It will save replacing broken needles. Start stitching at the inseam side of the pants so that the overlapping stitches of where you begin and end will be hidden at the inside of the hem. It will also help you to start and end, off to one side of the inseam as opposed to on top of it because of the bulkiness.

The last step is to press your newly finished hems.

I hope this helps you hem those pants you aren't wearing due to the long length. It is easy to do and doesn't take much time. One of the nice things about being able to do your own alterations is that you can consider buying clothing that doesn't quite fit and make it fit perfectly without extra expense. Think of all those marked down pants on sales racks you passed up because they were 6 inches too long. Now you can buy them up and hem them for free. Just make sure you pre-wash/dry them first. :)

Cheers!!

How To Replace A Broken/Missing Jacket Zipper Pull

2011-06-09T12:42:00.000-07:00

In my last post I let you know that I would be posting a how-to for replacing a broken or missing zipper pull. This is the perfect time of year to do this and it will save us from the 'reward' of our procrastination in November when we pull out the winter coats. The last thing we want to discover is that the zipper pull that fell off last winter is STILL off. Of course, this tutorial will apply to hoodies, zip up sweaters, blazers, etc. Any separating zipper such as this can be repaired this way. For NON-separating zips such as used in pants, skirts, dresses, jeans etc, that is a different system which I will share with you in future lessons.

For replacing your zipper pull you will need to have some items on hand. As far as tools you will need a pair of scissors and a wire cutter/nipper. You will also need a replacement pull that is the same size as the one on your jacket and in most cases, a new zipper top-stop. Of course you are asking "Where in the world do I find all this stuff????" Most fabric stores/sewing centers will offer a zipper repair kit that will have a few different sizes of pulls as well as an assortment of zipper top/bottom stops. If you aren't near a fabric store you will easily be able to find something online. Keywords that will work- zipper repair kits, zipper pulls, zipper top/bottom stop.

To determine the correct size of the pull look on the back side. (of the pull itself) MOST of the time there will be a number imprinted on it. Standard fall/winter weight jackets are typically #5 but some are bigger and some are smaller. The bigger the number, the bigger the pull because the teeth on the zip are bigger. Another thing to know is that there are 3 types of zipper teeth and that will come into play in regard to the pull. Some zipper teeth are plastic, some are metal and some are a plastic 'coil'. Coil teeth are usually on lighter weight jackets and sweaters.

For this tutorial I am replacing a pull on my husbands work jacket. Sorry that the photos are so light-flooded! I wanted to get close up shots so you can see detail.

***The written directions are above the corresponding photos.

To remove the broken pull OR to replace a missing one you must first remove the zipper top-stop at the top of the zipper tape. (The tape is the fabric strip the teeth are attached to.) You only need to remove the top stop from the side of the zipper that the pull is on. Top stops are made from either plastic or metal. In this case it is plastic and using the wire cutters, I simply pulled it off. Plastic top stops cannot be reused as they are molded on in production. Some metal stops can be reused if you can remove them without destroying them. Try it and see. For the metal ones, the stops will come off easier if you can get the edge of the wire cutter under the edge of the stop and wedge it open. If you Can do that you will likely be able to use the stop again. If the stop is stubborn and refuses to let loose, then get it off any way you can and use a new one. You absolutely have to replace the top stop or you will risk the loss of your puller if you pull it up too far.

Once you have removed the top stop, take a sharp scissors and as close to the JACKET as possible (right near where the zipper tape meets the fabric of the jacket, in this case near that wear spot above) make a small crosswise clip through the front edge, or the 'roll' of the zip tape. You don't need to cut deeply into the tape as you just want to make it easier to feed the old zip off and the new one one. Don't worry about destroying anything. Once the new top stop is applied, all will be well.

Next, pull off the old pull. (Unless a pull is hopelessly broken, I always save them. Through the years I have collected a large stash of pulls from jackets, tops, dresses, jeans, purses, etc. * No, I don't collect them for fun. I ran an alterations/custom sewing biz for lots of years. :)

Next, apply the new pull onto the zipper tape. *Take note; if you are replacing a MISSING pull, MAKE SURE to apply the new pull to the side of the zipper that has the 'box' at the bottom of it. Both side of jacket zips have distinctive bottoms. On one side is the tab. The other side is the box. When we zip our jackets we slip the tab side into the zipper pull which is pushed all the way down on the box side. In order for the zip to work, the pull MUST be applied to the box side. *How do I know to tell you these things???? Because I have done it the wrong way enough times to want to spare you my mistakes. :)

Now that the new puller is in place you need to test it to make sure it will work. Do not apply the zipper stop before testing the fit. Sometimes, especially when a jacket is old and the teeth are worn down, a particular pull- even of the same size- may not fit. Check it NOW before you squeeze on the new top stop. To check the fit of the new pull simply close up the zipper and run it up and down a few times. If the fit it tight you will need a bigger puller OR if when you are zipping it closed you find one side of the teeth separating from the other, then the puller is too big. Try different pulls til you find one that fits. Once you know the new pull is working then you can apply the new top stop. Here is what a large one looks like:

The metal ones come in both silver and brass as well in different sizes. Use whichever is appropriate for the jacket.
Next place the top stop on the zipper tape, right above the top tooth. Using the wire cutters or a pair of pliers, squeeze the stop tightly so that it is grabbing the tape securely.

Take note that I have replaced the bad pull with a grey one but that is just to make it easy for you to see. As often as possible you will want to replace the bad one with the same color but for a work or play jacket even if the puller isn't exactly the same color, it is sometimes enough just to be able to have the zipper work. I have saved a lot of money through the years for my family and my customers by replacing a zipper pull. It is much cheaper than buying a whole new jacket.

There ARE times though that a new puller won't help. Here is how to determine if you zipper is beyond help. Certain elements MUST be present and in good working order in order for a new puller to be the answer.

1. ALL the teeth must be intact and tight fitting to the zipper tape. Even one missing tooth will require an entire new zipper to be put in.
2. The box and the tab at the bottom of the two sides of the zipper must be intact and secure. If EITHER of these is broken, missing or compromised the zipper will need to be replaced.

3. If there is a tear/cut into the zipper tape between the teeth the zipper will have to be replaced.

If upon inspection none of the above problems exist then a new puller will likely solve the problem. But I have found on occasion that if the jacket has been worn a lot that the the teeth get worn down and no puller will work. Again, that would require a complete zipper replacement. But usually by the time that happens you will be ready for a new jacket anyway.

Hope this helps you in your quest to restore that beloved jacket. Zipper pull repair is an easy and inexpensive way to prolong the life of a jacket or other garment. Let me know if you have any questions. I will be happy to help. :)

Cheers!!

Fabric Cleaning Guide

2011-06-07T09:19:00.000-07:00

As I posted yesterday in my "how to determine a fabric" guide, I am following up today with how to properly clean different fabrics. But before stepping into that I want to add to yesterday's post by stating that it can sometimes be difficult to determine a fabric if it is a blend. There are LOTS of blends on the market and something that looks like one thing can be a completely different kind. And even attempting to figure it out via the Burn Test (see previous post) can leave us with very ambiguous results. Now that you are confused by all that uncertainty I will simply say to go with your best guess. After all, aren't most of us going to just wash the item anyway? It IS nice to figure out whether to wash warm or cold and if we should use the dryer or line dry, but it has been my experience that if something requires a lot of fuss I will usually just take a chance and machine wash/line dry. Of course there are exceptions; Wool being the main one. But more on that in a minute.

Here are the cleaning suggestions for common fabrics:

Acetate- Dry Clean Only. *I have experience with this. If you want it to shrink a lot and have a real weird appearance, feel free to wash and dry. Otherwise DC Only!

Acrylic- Machine wash warm or cold, and either use fabric softener or a dryer sheet in the dryer. Dry on low. And that thing about using softener or a dryer sheet--- yeah, do that, or you will have nothing but a ball of static when it comes out of the dryer. I know this from experience too. Another thing, remove from the dryer as SOON as it is done as it will wrinkle wrinkle wrinkle. And it isn't fun to iron. But if you have to, us a 'cool' iron as it doesn't like too much heat. Or use a press cloth.

Cotton- What a fabric huh? What would we do without the most commonly worn fabric on the planet? One of the best things about it is that it is so easy to take care of. Machine wash/ dry. I do occasionally hand wash something that is embellished or somehow fancied up, but for the most part, cotton is best cleaned using our laundry equipment.

Linen- I break every linen rule that was ever made. And with great results per my preference. BUT if you want linen to keep its crisp appearance, dry clean only. For the rest of us, machine wash either cold or warm (I wash on warm) and line dry. Then I iron which sometimes requires misting the fabric with water to get the wrinkles to relax. Once I put on a linen garment I WELCOME the created-from-wearing wrinkles as I love that about linen. It is casual and relaxed but still classic. It is comfortable and one of my favorite fabrics. FYI, if you purchase a linen item from my website, I will have prewashed the fabric prior to creating the garment. No worries about shrinkage. Another nice thing about linen is the more you wash it, the drapier and softer it becomes. Again, want it crisp? DC Only.

Polyester- Polys tend to be cast iron when it comes to cleaning. All polyesters can be DC'd but why would you since they are easy to launder in most cases. Typically if a poly SHOULD be DC'd it will tell you on the label. If there isn't one you can be fairly certain it will be fine to launder it but you will want to use fabric softener or a dryer sheet as it tends towards static. This is especially true of
Poly Fleece- Soft. Warm. Easy to work with. Makes divine warm weather wear and blankets. But YIKES! If you wash and dry without softener or dryer sheet you will generate enough electricity to impress Ben Franklin! We are talking serious zappage! *enter lightning and thunder crack >HERE

Rayon- This is a really great fabric as it drapes beautifully and wears really well. BUT. My experience with rayon in regard to cleaning has been challenging. DC-ing is usually recommended but I don't like doing that to anything but wool. What I have found with rayon is that it will USUALLY do fine being washed in cold, and drying by either laying it flat OR on a hanger. I have done both. I have also had a real bad rayon failure by choosing to wash it. I had a dress shrink very badly one time. I bet it reduced by almost 1/3 of the original size. And that was by hand washing in cold. I could feel the fabric of the dress 'densify' as I moved it around in the water. The dress was ruined. Don't be scared. That happened a long time ago and I have never had that experience with rayon again, but I still recommend (if you don't want to DC) hand washing and line drying. But read your labels and use common sense.

Silk- I break all the rules about silk too. I always prewash my silk yardage when I get it. Once silk is washed it shrinks all it's going to shrink. This allows for my buyers to wash the garments they buy from me and not fuss with DC-ing. BUT most garments off the rack will not have been prewashed. If they have been, the labeling with reflect that; "Washable Silk" or some such verbiage. I typically hand wash any silk items I have purchased and have had great results. Read the labels and use common sense.

Triacetates- I have read that these can be laundered but I have never had success doing that. Although it HAS been a lot of years, so they might be better now than they used to be.... My suggestion is to do EXACTLY what your label tells you to do. If you don't have a label and are wondering which way to go I need to be straight with you and tell you... I have NO idea. I don't buy them as either fabric or garments and my 25-year-ago attempt to launder was disastrous. Sorry. I am guessing not too many of you are buying triacetate garments anyway, but they do use it for coat and jacket linings so you could run into it there.

Wool- Dry Clean Only. Period. Unless your label says you CAN wash it. Often times, wool blends CAN be laundered as the percentage of wool is so slight it won't make a difference. But for anything where the majority of the fabric content is wool then be wise and DC. One nice thing about wool is that it releases odors easily. If you have worn your wool item somewhere that it has picked up odors, then hang it in an open area for a few days to let it air out. Also, if you have spilled something on it you may be able to spot clean it without paying to DC the whole thing. Check with your cleaner to see if he can remove the spot. Or be brave and try it at home. I have done this with a damp cloth and have had success. Again, common sense rules.

Hope this helps to clarify as to how to clean some of those items in your closet. I like to keep things simple so if a fabric is too fussy I will USUALLY try to wash the thing and if it survives, great, it will live to see another wearing. If not, oh well. Simplicity is the rule at my house. I would rather save the DC-ing for my wools and keep the chemicals out of my house.
ON THAT NOTE: when you do DC it is always wise to remove the bag and let the item air out several days before wearing, if possible.

Cheers! :)

Another Sewing Tip

2011-06-06T09:02:00.000-07:00

There is lots of stuff happening in my work room this week with a focus on more bridal accessories for the website as well as some simple summer top designs. Eventually full blown summer WILL arrive her in SE Wisconsin and I want to be prepared with some cool comfortable tank tops. Watch for all this new stuff to arrive soon to my site.
While I work on all that other stuff I thought I would add another sewing tip. I got to thinking about what a nuisance it is when we have clothing without laundering labels. In most cases it is pretty easy to figure out how to clean an article of clothing but once in a while we can get tripped up as some fabrics are really hard to figure out. Is it cotton or a blend? Is this item silk or a polyester version? Is this wool or a good fake? It's pretty easy to destroy a favorite garment if we guess the wrong answer to these questions.

Here is a way to figure this out. It's called the Burn Test.
***This involves matches and fire so have a bowl of water available just in case you have to quickly dowse a flame!!!!
Clip a small piece of the fabric from an inconspicuous area such as the hem or seam allowance if it is large enough.
Using tweezers or tongs or any fireproof item that keeps the flame away from your hand and anything else, hold a lighted match or lighter to the edge of the clipped fabric and watch how it burns.

Different fabrics burn a bit differently.

Natural plant fabrics:
Cotton and Linen burn easily and are easy to extinguish. The ash crumbles easily like paper.

Natural animal fabrics:
Silk burns easily. Wool is reluctant to burn and will usually go out on its own. Both smell like burning hair and the ash is crumbly.

Manmade fabrics:

Polyester, Nylon and Acrylics (made from petro chemicals) burn easily and leave a black melted glob when extinguished and cooled. Think melted plastic and they smell like it too.

Rayon and Acetate (made from the soft parts of plants) burns easily but are hard to blow out. Rayon smells a bit like burning wood. Neither create much ash.

Now that you know how to distinguish between different unknown fabric types you will know better how to clean them. Just make sure not to clip too big an area out of your garment or your next lesson will have to be about repairing them. Use common sense here and have that bowl of water handy and all will be well.

Next time I will list the proper care for your different kinds of fabrics. Proper laundering/cleaning will extend the life of your garment. Till then~

Cheers!! :)

Sewing Lessons 101~ How To Sew A Button

2011-05-17T09:38:00.000-07:00

While sewing a button may seem like a no brainer, there are different ways of doing it. Some methods bring better results than others so I thought I would share the way I do it. I tend to fine tune any process down to the bare bones that will get the best results with the most efficient effort. Hope this helps you if you have been wondering about the How-To of button sewing.

*As you can see below, I shot the images using a large thread, needle and button for clarity.
*The written descriptions coincide with the image below it.

From the spool, pull off more thread than you need as it makes it easier to work with. BUT don't pull off so much that you create problems for yourself. In this case I cut off about 2 feet. Once cut, thread the needle and pull the ends of the threads even. DO NOT MAKE A KNOT. I know that is the usual thing to do but by NOT knotting the threads it reduces the bump created by the knot. The end result lays more flat and has a more professional look. And NO. The button will not come loose. I will show you why later.

Next, position the button in the correct location and insert the needle from behind into one of the holes in the button leaving a tail thread of at least 2".

Once the thread is through to the front it is helpful to pin a straight pin directly under the holes in the button in a crosswise fashion. Why? This creates space for a shank which raises the button away from the fabric making room for the buttonhole to 'settle' in around it. If the button is too tight against the fabric the buttonhole tends to spread apart and not lay flat.

Next, making sure the button is positioned correctly on the front side, insert needle into the 2nd hole (from the top) and push through to the back. Be sure to hold the button in place and pull the threads taut without pulling the tail through to the front.

Insert the needle into the same hole as the first stitch and bring up into the first hole in the button. Pull the thread in the back all the way through to the front, checking to make sure it is laying flat on the back side. Insert the needle (from the front) in the 2nd hole again and repeat, again pulling the thread all the way through and checking for neatness. Repeat these steps several times until button is secured. I like to sew through at least 8 to 10 times, however the thickness of the fabric, the thread type and different buttons will dictate what process is best. Use your best judgment to determine this.

Once the button has been sewn, remove the straight pin and bring the needle from the back side into the stitching UNDER the button but on top of the front of the fabric. Pull all the way through to the front.

Once the needle is pulled through and the thread is smoothed out on the back and pulled taut to the front, wrap the shank 3 or 4 times. Then insert the needle into the shank.

Pull the needle through the shank and once a loop has been created put the needle through the loop and pull very tightly. Reinsert the needle into the shank and repeat this process, again, pulling very tightly. These knots will lock everything down and which is why you didn't need a knot on the backside. Once you have made 2 tight knots and are sure they are tight, Carefully using the tips of your scissors, clip off the threads under the button leaving a short tail.

Next, clip the threads on the back leaving a short tail. Smooth out the back of the fabric to lay flat. When super-tightening the knots on the shank, the back tends to get a bit bunchy.

And there you have it! A beautifully and professionally sewn button.

This is the basic lesson on a two-hole button but buttons come in many forms. While the techniques for button-sewing are similar for all of them, different types will dictate different ways of applying them. Probably the most common variation to the 2-hole is the 4-hole which is frequently found on shirts and jackets. Four-hole buttons can be sewn like the 2-hole as a straight stitch in each set of holes, or in an X pattern. Some buttons come with built in shanks such as on suit jackets or bridal gowns. These are sewn in a straight stitch with the sewn stitches 'biting' enough of the fabric under the button as to hold it securely without being so wide as to be seen. When sewing shanked buttons I tend to knot at the back of the fabric so as to hide them from view. Shanked buttons can 'tip' and it looks neater to have no visible knots showing.

Sewing buttons neatly and well takes a bit of practice but by being careful with each step you will succeed every time and save yourself having to bug your mom to do it for you. ;D

Happy sewing everyone! Cheers!!

A Link Worth Sharing!

2011-05-10T17:03:00.000-07:00

As a fan of sewing and sewing/garment history I loved reading the following article and thought you might want to read it as well. The writer is part of Indygo Junction which produces all sorts of sewing patterns. If you love history, sewing and/or the history of sewing I know you will find her article fascinating. Just wanted to share. :) CLICK HERE Cheers!

The Craft of Fabric

2010-04-07T14:46:00.000-07:00

If you have followed my blog for very long you know that I sew because I am a fabric fan. I am fascinated by every aspect of the stuff. The fibers, the weaving, the patterns, the colors, how it's made, who it is made by, the process of design, EVERYTHING. I am quite sure that through out the years and probably the life of this blog, I have stated that "___________ is my favorite fabric". I guess I can easily justify saying that about most of them because it is true. Put any given fabric in front of me and I will usually find something that is "ooooooohhhhh-worthy".

Today (again), my 'favorite' fabric is the block prints that come from India. I have written of these before. I have made a few items for my web-store from them. I am always jazzed when I come across them. I purchased these two at the antique shop a block from my house. They are actually bedspreads and I am thrilled to have found them in such an unlikely place as I doubt they are antiques. I have a particular affinity for these things having worked as a shop girl in an India import shop in my younger years. I was attracted to all the textiles there; the spreads, the linens, the saris, and the clothing. I liked their unusual patterns and they seemed so exotic to me. I am sure my love for the block prints began in that shop.

I have researched how block prints are made and it is very labor intensive. Wooden blocks are carved with the patterns and then are dipped in dye and pressed onto the fabric. There can be many colors and patterns to each textile and can take hours to make a single one. How would you like THAT job??? Actually I think it would be fun..... for a day.

I have yet to decide what beautiful garment I am going to make from these fabrics but I will let you know when I do. In the meantime if you want to check out my e-store, MLOriginals.com, you can see my original handmade clothing and accessories. I design and create one of a kind items from all types of 'favorite' fabrics. Maybe you will find something in a favorite fabric of your own. And remember, they are all "Unique! Like YOU!!"

Til next time~

Ode To The Sewing Machine

2010-01-27T08:30:00.001-08:00

Evolutionary processes of mechanical items
hold great fascination for me. I am especially intrigued with the sewing machine. I have sewn on many different manifestations of this amazing device over the last 4 decades, all of which have offered the same basic function of permanently connecting fabric to fabric.

My first experience with a sewing machine was on my mother's home machine. I no longer remember the brand but it was a nice all-metal sage green machine which could be folded down into the lovely wood cabinet. I played with it enough to figure out I would like to learn to sew which led me to my next machine which was a portable unit at the Singer Sewing Center where I took lessons. That one was a shiny white number with plastic bobbins and a plastic housing if I recall correctly.

A year later I was in junior high and was sewing in home ec class on a machine nearly identical to what I had used during my lessons. It was during that time that I figured out I was pretty good at the craft but wished the machines could sew faster. They poked along much too slow for me.

We moved the following summer and I found myself in a new school district, and another home ec class where I was sewing on the same generic, white, too-slow-for-my-liking sewing machines. But I continued to hone my sewing skills making everything from slippers to aprons to wearables.

Then when I was 14 my parents went out to run errands one day and came home with a very unexpected gift for me! A brand new Sears Kenmore portable machine. Complete with a buttonholer and a cam system for executing machine embroidery. I was floored! It was totally unexpected but very appreciated. My mother's old machine did not make the move with us so I hadn't been doing any sewing at home. What is incredible about that machine is that I still use it! It was made for longevity with its all metal housing and bobbin system. I have replaced the motor 3 times through the years but it keeps on working. Now I mainly use it for the buttonhole feature but it has been a reliable workhorse for many decades.

My next step in my journey with the sewing machine was taken in the late 80's. I took a job in a tailor shop and was introduced to the industrial sewing machine. Finally! A machine that would sew fast enough for me! *At top speed it ran at 3000 stitches a minute!* 'My' machine at the shop was a Columbia Union Special. The industrial machines are made for HEAVY use, with all metal parts and gearings as well as a 3/4 horsepower motor. They will sew through just about everything and I put it to the test at that job. I liked the machine so much I bought an identical one to sew with at home. I put a lot of miles on it before replacing with a similar model Juki machine. It has been a wonderful machine and I plan to use this one until either the machine or I wear out, which ever comes first.

As I have had the opportunity to use a number of different machines through the years I have witnessed a small slice of sewing machine evolution but the beginnings of that evolution goes back a long way. The first patents for sewing machines were given in the 1830's but the quest to invent a machine that could successfully and quickly stitch had been going on for several years prior. Those first machines were spare and primitive. The ancient machine above was my grandmother's. I do not know when she got it but it is the only sewing machine I ever saw at her house. I never saw it in use but I would go look at it in her attic while visiting as I thought it was beautiful in a sculptural sort of fashion. I am so happy to have ended up with it. I am also happy that I don't have to sew with it. I would much rather sit at my high-speed, super-stitch, 3/4 horsepower motored wonder machine any day than to sit and gently rock the treadle back and forth on Grandma's antique number. I doubt I would be creating my original handmade clothing and accessories for my website MLOriginals.com if it were so. Some say "Speed kills" but I say in this case, "It gets me where I'm goin'!" :)

Want to see what I have been making on my wonder machine? Drop by my website and pay a visit. I design and create casual, comfortable, one of a kind ladies clothing and accessories. Everything is "Unique! Like You!!"

And Speaking Of Clothing....

2010-01-26T07:46:00.000-08:00

My love for sewing began when I was a kid. I got my official start in garment construction way back in the 60's while still in grade school. I can still remember being at the Singer Sewing Center where my lessons were held. I was literally mesmerized by the aisles of fabric and the drawers of patterns. That first lesson opened my world to the endless combination of fabric and patterns. I am able after all these years to remember my amazement as I considered the possibilities and that there was virtually no end to the items that could be created. I still feel that way. I am still mesmerized by it all.

I design my own patterns now but I have a collection of manufactured patterns that I have held onto through the years. I have downsized my pattern stash for the sake of space but have retained the ones that are favorites. I have antique patterns that are true treasures. My oldest belonged to my grandmother and is from the late 1800s/early 1900s. It is the gem of my collection. Additionally I have at least one pattern from each decade from the first half of the 1900s and many from the 60s and up. I don't use them at this point but it is still fun to look to them for inspiration and for laughs (The 70s! What Were we thinking!).

If you sew &/or just love to look at patterns like I do, pay a visit to my friend Sheila's website RisingFeenix.com. It is an adventure through fashion history. She has THOUSANDS of vintage sewing patterns from every era and her site is just plain fun. She has categorized them several ways which enhances the thrill of the hunt. And if you are looking to buy, she has the best prices on the web as well as wonderful customer service.

This week I am sewing patterns of my own design. I am working on 3 of my empire tops. One in a luscious denim blue micro-suede, one in a speckled gray/black knit and the last in a soft drapey aubergine rayon blend corduroy. Also on the table is a textured black knit mandarin jacket and lastly, a dramatic shift jacket in a bold black-and-white reversible wool weave. I am torn on that one as to which side of the fabric to use for the outside. A hard decision as both sides are so gorgeous. I suspect that will be the last one to get sewn up.....

If you are interested in seeing similar items to these prior to me getting them completed and listed in my e-store, stop in and visit my website and check out the other items I have that are made with these same patterns in different fabrics. Remember that all my items are one-of-a-kind and no pattern is ever paired with the same fabric twice. My designs are all handmade originals created by me right here in my studio.

Don't forget to drop in on Sheila and peruse her patterns. Even if you don't sew, it is an interesting way to spend a bit of time. You might even see a pattern or style from your past. And I guarantee you a few LOL moments as you read her commentary on some of the patterns. :) Enjoy!

What's Your Style?

2010-01-23T07:28:00.000-08:00

When it comes to designing my handmade original clothing I find I am inspired my many things. While it usually starts with fabrics I find, there are many other things that fire my creative imagination. Many times I will see an article of clothing hanging in a shop or on a person in the street or in a magazine and these are often jumping off points for me that get me thinking "Hmmmm, I like but that but I would change this and add that....." or something to that effect.

When I find something in a magazine or other publication I cut it out and stick it to one of my many inspiration boards. Sometimes I am inspired by a basic design or outline, sometimes it is the fabric but most often it is a single detail. Every time I look at my boards I am amazed at the diversity of styles represented there. Some are tailored and classic, some are romantic and Bohemian, others are edgy and punk and so on. I have appreciation for every type of style out there and would love to wear them all. Clothing should be fun and we all have the freedom to experiment with style. But I got to wondering about how to DEFINE different styles. I set out to do this and realized it was going to be harder than I thought. So I bought a book. "The Lucky Guide To Mastering Any Style". This has been a fun read. This book breaks style down into 11 categories. What I like about it is that while the book defines these different styles, it doesn't promote hard and fast rules about them. The book is a guide, a jumping off point and a reference from which we can 'locate' our style favorites.

According to "Lucky" these are the labels and definitions of the different styles. The labels are Lucky's, the definitions are my condensed version.

1. Euro Chic- These are the women for whom the word "chic" was invented. The ones who make all the fashion editors take notice and bow to perfection. There's a sense of selectiveness and couture to everything they wear- expensive or not- and how they wear it. Euro Chic is effortless and sophisticated. It is eclectic high fashion. Examples of this style: Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger

2. California Casual- This is a look grounded in time and place that may have never existed outside of our imaginations: the tawny golden Malibu of the 70s. A combination of dreamy sexuality and surfer girl vitality that makes this look so distinct. California Casual is distinctly American. If there were a style of dress for which the word 'breezy' applied, this is it. Farrah Fawcett, Cameron Diaz

3. Rock & Roll- The essentials of rock style are no big mystery; jeans and leather pants, a boyish biker jacket, some wicked looking boots. But it's a matter of combining these with lots of slink and style and balancing the tough with the ethereal, the strict with the sensuous. Patti Smith, Debbie Harry

4. Posh Eclectic- In this category we find madcap glamor made up of equal parts country-estate frump and the black-sheep aristocrat's disregard for what's acceptable. But there is a genuine chemistry when it all comes together. eg: fearless layering of decades--40s librarian with 70s punk with 30s socialite with turn of the century gothic-- finished with vintage touches. Sophie Dahl, Daphne Guinness

5. Mod- This bold category was inspired by a subway slogan. "Brave New London". Mary Quant, the originator of Mod, used this as a directive for her new designs. They were boldly black and white, zippered, geometric and shiny. They went far beyond new and were considered futuristic. Mod still feels like the future- not the future as it happened but the era's happy, optimistic and flirty version of it. The look is still sexy and stylish, but this time around with a wink. Twiggy, Selma Blair

6. American Classic- The most timeless- and certainly most trendproof- of looks, this style is one that gets right at the heart of our fixation on the northeastern-elite lifestyle. Today that means something that's part equestrian, Ivy league and Jackie O. Ladylike with a bit of urban knowingness thrown in. The look can be menswear inspired without being unfeminine. Grace Kelly, Katherine Hepburn

7. Bombshell- Sophia Loren once said, "Sex appeal is 50% what you've got and 50% what they think you've got." Bombshell might be the most labor intensive look of all. These women work hard to get glamorous. They take care to slip on stockings so the seam goes straight up the back; to cinch their waist way in; to wear coordinated lingerie sets, complicated corsets and high heels- to the market. They take us out of time, away from trends and practicality. Primarily 40s and 50s influenced- but not strictly vintage- the core elements remain the same. It's about shape and polish with a dose of sparkle. Marilyn Monroe, Ann-Margaret

8. Arty Slick- In its purist form this fearlessly stylish look will forever be ahead of its time. Full of structured, asymmetrical jackets and dresses, layered tops and boldly sculptural jewelry, this is both avant-garde flair and minimalist cool. Almost everything is black and has some twist to it; swingy draping, a collar with shape or volume, a V-neck that doesn't quite V. Still, for all its drama Arty Slick isn't all or nothing; you can prove your point with slouchy trousers, a skinny tank and a bright necklace. The key is to let go of any desire to blend in with the pack. Isabella Rossellini, Bjork

9. Bohemian- This style is eclectic, with a high-low mesh of earthy and flashy. It's about wearing rich pieces capriciously- frayed jeans and ornate jewelry, rough-hewn sandals and a delicate dress. The effect is sophisticated and amazingly cool. Stevie Nicks, Ali MacGraw

10. Gamine- This in an intercontinental mix of clean American lines and French indifference. The wardrobe couldn't be more simple or timeless- cotton cardigans; cool, lovely floral dresses; old-school espadrilles; boatneck sweaters in navy and red- but put together in an offhand, pedaling-to-the-market kind of way. Audrey Hepburn, Audrey Tatou

11. Mix and Match- Naturally most people can't be categorized into a single iconic look. Personal style is a fun ever-changing thing and we are all about being creative and mixing it up a bit - some Posh Eclectic flash with a bit of American Classic neatness; Euro Chic layered with Mod; and so on.

Examples of this Mix and Match style? The rest of us. It is fun to consider the iconic looks of these different styles, but in regard to most of the people I know including myself, we wear a blend of many of these defined styles. Our mode of dress for everyday life is typically an amalgamation of many different looks. There are no rules here. We can all choose our own style, styles or lack of any which is still a style. The thing I like to see is people wearing what they like and feel good in. I like that sense of personal choice and individualism. Yes, clothing is functional in that it protects us but since it is a requirement we may as well make it a personal form of self expression.

Did you find yourself picking a favorite from the list above? I found I favored them all! Guess that makes my own personal style truly eclectic. That probably explains why I design the way I do. My work certainly does not fall into any single style category. I can see that my original ladies wear and accessories fall into many of the categories, if not all of them. Want to see for yourself? Drop into my
shop and check out my eclectic designs. This week I am in the studio creating wraps and warm tops. Watch for those new designs the end of the week. You may find something that suits your style.

The Wonderful World of Fabrics

2010-01-18T19:07:00.000-08:00

I sew because of my appreciation of textiles. I find it hard to resist the colors, textures, patterns and feel of most fabric. To me there is nothing quite as inspiring as walking through a fabric store perusing the bolts. The "onslaught" of all that color and texture gets my creative juices flowing and causes me to want to run home and get sewing one of my handmade original designs.

In honor of all things fabric I thought I would list some of my favorites and define them. We often hear the names of different types but don't always know what a particular fabric actually is. I hope this quick tutorial will be of benefit to you. This information comes from a reference book I got way way way back in 1969.

Batiste- A soft, sheer fabric of plain weave available in cotton, cotton poly blend, silk and synthetics. (Often used for christening gowns.)

Boucle'- A medium weight fabric woven or knitted of irregularly twisted yarns. Distinguished by small spaced loops on fabric surface, boucle' is available in natural and synthetic fabrics. (Boucle' is a wonderful fabric for jackets. The weave has 'body' and texture which makes it look rich.)

Brocade- A Jacquard weave, often of floral design and multi-colored, recognized by its raised design. It is made of natural and synthetic fibers. (Brocade is usually satiny. The design is woven in. Fancy!)

Challis- A soft, lightweight fabric made with a plain or twill weave of natural or synthetic fiber. (I find this most often in rayon. It is drapey and soft. Great for flowing skirts!)

Chiffon- A very sheer, transparent, gauzy plain weave fabric made of highly twisted yarns in wool, silk and synthetic fibers. (Chiffon is elegant and beautiful, especially when done in silk.)

Damask- A Jacquard weave of one color with a characteristic flat design in a satin finish with a dull background. It is reversible. Made of natural and synthetic fibers. (Another fabric with the design woven in. Tablecloths are often made this way.)

Lawn- A sheer, fine cotton or linen fabric made in a plain weave. It is crisper than voile, less crisp that organdy. (Ideal for summery garments.)

Linen- This plain weave fabric of naturally slubbed yarns, spun from flax fibers, is available in weights from lightweight sheers to heavy coatings. Linen-like cloth is available in silk and synthetics. (One of my 3 most favorite fabrics! Anything made from linen get softer and drapier with wearing and washing.)

Melton- This smooth, heavy fabric has a felted, napped surface. Made in wool and wool blends. Is is usually used for outerwear. (The perfect wool for a jacket or coat. Another of my 3 favorite fabrics.)

Organdy- This sheer, stiff, transparent cloth, made in a plain weave, is available in cotton and silk. (Another fabric used for christening gowns. A classic fabric for summery tops.)

Tussah- A fabric made of rough, irregular silk produced by uncultivated silkworms. Often referred to as raw silk, the yarns are thick and tough. (This is another of my 3 most favorite fabrics, although I am a fan of ALL silks. Tussah has a substantial texture and is really beautiful.)

Velvet- A pile fabric woven of silk or synthetic fibers. The pile may be cut, uncut or both cut and uncut. If a design has been cut into the pile it is called cut velvet. If the pile has been pressed (or 'crushed') it is called panne' velvet. (Velvet creates a rich and dramatic look!)

Voile- A crisp, sheer lightweight fabric made with a plain weave, may be plain or printed. Although similar to lawn and organdy, it is less crisp. It is available in cotton and synthetics. (Another great summery fabric.)

This is a very limited list of the fabrics that are available but it does cover the ones I love to work with most. I am especially drawn towards the natural fibers but there are some beautiful manmade ones out there as well that are hard to resist. Have you seen the movie "Field of Dreams"? If so you will recall the line 'If you build it, he will come.' I have reworded that line in regard to my fabric addiction: 'If they weave it, I will buy'. And buy and buy and buy. And that is why I sew and sew and sew.

Please drop by my website and check out my creations. This week I am working with some winter heavyweights. One is a beautiful piece of brown and black wool done in a chunky weave. The texture is striking, the colors are earthy, the result..... well, that has yet to be determined but I am thinking of a cape or jacket. Either way it will be gorgeous as the fabric is wonderful.

So What IS Haute Couture?

2010-01-13T10:42:00.000-08:00

Think about your all time most favorite article of clothing. Was it a favorite because of the fabric, the way it fit, the color, how it made you feel when you wore it.... just what was it that made it special to the point that you are glad you own it or wish you still did?

Considering the volume of clothing we wear in the course of a lifetime, it says a lot about a favorite if we recall it even after we no longer own it. But often even our favorites get forgotten. Recently I was looking at old photos with my daughter and upon seeing my 17 year old self I exclaimed, "I forgot about that shirt! I really liked it!". That reminded me of how transient our clothing actually is and how fleeting our relationship is when it comes to what we wear.

So what is it that makes certain items more special than others? My favorites these days tend to be items that hit all the marks. The fabric has to be of good quality, the color has to be a fave, the fit needs to be perfect and I need to feel great when I wear it. For me the favorites are few and far between these days as self employment requires only casual wear. This is perfectly fine by me. If I want a new favorite, I can design and make it. This is one of the perks to being a clothing designer and seamstress. But what about those that want the ultimate in favorite clothing? Enter Haute Couture.

This topic holds much fascination for me. My interest in one of a kind clothing goes back to my first hearing about this process. Most of this type of work is done through the big name design houses in Paris and there is a long history to go along with it. To define, Haute Couture is French for high fashion. Specifically, Haute means high or elegant. Couture refers to the creative aspects of construction such as sewing, dressmaking etc. To clarify, these garments are handmade (as well as hand SEWN) originals and often one of a kind, that are perfectly fitted to the buyer. They are usually structured and lined in ways that allow for comfort and to give the garment a long life. The start-to-finish process can take anywhere from 100 hours for a simple design to over 1000 hours for an evening or bridal gown. Those hours can multiply with the addition of bead work and embroidery.

So, you want to invest in a bit of Haute Couture? The process is amazing. First you set an appointment with the design house of your choosing. You want to make sure that their current sample designs are not on tour somewhere else. Plus, they want to know you are a serious buyer since you will be paying thousands of dollars for one item. After perusing the samples you choose a design, get measured and work with your sales person, called a vendeuse. She is in essence your personal clerk and will usher you through submitting your order, all your fittings and delivery of your item. Once measured, you can plan on a minimum of 3 fittings. Initially a muslin will be created. This is a proto-type of your garment that is altered to fit you more and more perfectly after each of your fittings. Eventually the muslin is perfect for your form. With all its markings and notes for the placement of each detail such as buttons, vents etc, the muslin is then recreated in your chosen fabric. Here is where the real work begins. Each piece is cut and hand stitched together. Hand stitching creates ease in the garment which allows for a better flow on the body as well as a more precise manipulation of the fabric which also creates better detail and fit. Linings and underlinings and all the details are added. It's no wonder it can take hundreds of hours to complete a single item. Each tiny detail is attended to with great care and precision. Nothing is overlooked. And did I mention that your garment will be created by just one seamstress? From start to finish only one person will be working on your design. Once completed you will head back to Paris for a final fit and to pick it up. You also get to pay for it. How much? Based on my latest research you are looking at anywhere from $15,000 up to $65,000 and more. And often the design houses LOSE money on Haute Couture. (The trade off being that they make up for the losses through their ready to wear lines.) These days only the elite can afford this type of clothing. It is hard to fathom purchasing a single item of clothing that costs half as much as my house but for those that can it is probably a very fun and exciting process. Think of all those trips to Paris! Tres Bien!

Now that I have officially defined Haute Couture I realize my designs while NOT Haute, ARE Couture. They are all one of a kind clothing. All are handmade. (just not hand sewn) My patterns are all original. I use great fabrics and take great care when constructing them. I love the details and I even create muslins when creating a new design. And I offer all this without the inconvenience or expense of going to Paris. Plus, you don't have to pay $15,000 to $65,000 for one of my creations.
You can get a handmade original design that is truly one of a kind simply by visiting my website at MLOriginals.com. So pour yourself a cup of French roast coffee or have a croissant and pretend you are in the City of Light while you peruse my Couture. Each item is Tres Bien!

The Psychology of Color

2010-01-11T11:36:00.000-08:00

I have always found the psychology of color and how it affects us to be very fascinating. Isn't it interesting how we can wear or be surrounded by certain colors and actually experience a visceral response as a result? Some colors promote feelings of calm while others stimulate our emotions. Some colors enable confidence and others encourage action. I suspect color has a much bigger impact on our lives that we ever thought.

I have spent the last few days researching this most interesting phenomenon. Based on what I have studied I will list the colors and their attributes for your consideration. Consider your favorite color(s) and see what you think.

BLACK- Authoritative, powerful, classic, timeless, mysterious, sophisticated, slimming. (I like the whole slimming thing!)

WHITE- Purity, innocence, peaceful, neutral, cool, protective (the good guys wear white),calming.

RED- Stimulating, color of love, noticeable, encourages action, stimulates conversation.

PINK- Romantic, soothes feelings, calms aggression, charming, playful.

BLUE- Soothing, peaceful, promotes tranquility, symbolizes loyalty, promotes productivity, wisdom, confidence, stability, unity.

GREEN- Calming, refreshing, relaxing, harmonious, stabilizes emotions, reminds us of nature.

YELLOW- Attention getter, optimistic, enhances concentration, promotes creativity, cheerful.

PURPLE- Royal, romantic, sophisticated, implies wealth.

ORANGE- Energetic, warm, promotes ambition and new ideas, encourages socialization, friendly, promotes conversation.

BROWN- Reliable, down to earth, implies genuineness, orderliness.

GRAY- Practicality, timelessness, sophistication. Silvery GRAY implies strength of character.

So there you have it. A quick study in the way color potentially works/plays in our lives. I have no idea if there is a standard for all this but I do know that I am affected by the colors I wear and am surrounded by. Some of what I researched hits home with me and makes a lot of sense. Some I question but it doesn't matter. Color is a wonderful part of our lives and I would hate to think of life without it.

When I create my original handmade clothing, most pieces start with the fabric. I typically purchase the fabrics I use just because I like them, without knowing what they will become. (That decision is made at a later date.) This is a great way to choose fabrics. I like almost every color and try to buy a wide variety of colors, patterns and fabric types.

I recently asked my Facebook friends to list their favorite colors for clothing. Every color was submitted which told me that no person's favorite is the same. That was freeing for me as a clothing designer. It gives me the liberty to work with the fabrics I love, with no rules as to color and it tells me someone will like it. I keep my e-store filled with many different colors of clothing. Stop by and visit and maybe you will find an item that causes you to feel calm or happy or powerful or social. Click HERE to see all my colors and one of a kind designs.

Want to visit my Facebook page? I post fun and informative tidings there too. Click HERE and become a fan.

I wish for you a GREEN day with some ORANGE mixed in for conversation! :)

Clothing Quotes Just For Fun

2010-01-08T10:11:00.000-08:00

I love quotes. I am always interested in the comments of others in regard to just about any subject. Today I did a search for clothing quotes. Here are a few that I found:

Adornment is never anything except a reflection of the heart. Coco Chanel

Know first who you are and then adorn yourself accordingly. Epictetus

I base most of my fashion sense on what doesn't itch. Gild Radner

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. Mark Twain

What do nudists wear on casual Fridays? A.J. Esther

Sweater,n: garment worn by a child when its mother is feeling chilly. Ambrose Bierce

Never wear anything that panics the cat. P.J. O'Rourke

You're never fully dressed without a smile. Little Orphan Annie

Your Business clothes are naturally attracted to staining liquids. This attraction is strongest just before an important meeting. Scott Adams

Although largely unspoken I think most people have some kind of opinion or thought about clothing. I am a bit of a rebel when it comes to the subject of what to wear. A long time ago when I was a child, I remember the first time I heard that it was 'wrong' to wear white after Labor Day. "Why?!", was my response. I remember watching to see if people obeyed that rule and sure enough when autumn rolled around people gravitated towards darker clothing. That was my first awareness of fashion rules. And I have never understood them. Clothing is a personal thing. A basic form of self expression. I see no reason for there to be any form of fashion pressure or expectation to be placed on what we wear for daily life. Certainly there is a place for uniforms whether literal or assumed in regard to different industries etc, but what I am talking about is everyday wear and our own personal fashion sense.

I was a teen in the late 60s and early 70s. That era was a sea of change in every realm of life and it revealed itself nowhere more clearly than in the area of clothing. Skirt length had gotten shorter as well as longer. Don't all us mid-century kids recall the whole fashion labeling thing? 'Mini'. 'Midi'. 'Maxi'. 'Mod'. The neat tailored-ness of the 50s stepped aside for the fashion explosion of the 60s. Colors and patterns were brighter, bigger, bolder, louder. Just like the era itself.

With all the liberating that was going on at that time I was glad to see a lot of fashion rules broken for good. I never planned to follow any of them anyway. I have always worn white after Labor Day. I like different skirt lengths. I have worn clothing that wasn't perfect for my shape just because I like the garment. These rebellious attitudes have contributed so much to the designs I create. I am not moved by trends or rules. My original handmade clothing is made to be easy wearing, comfortable and classic in the most freeing sense of the word. They are timeless because they follow neither rules nor current fashion dictates. Want to see for yourself? Visit my website MLOriginals and check out my one of a kind ladies clothing and accessories. And remember; to quote Annie again, "You're never fully dressed without a smile."

Fashion vs Clothing- The Great Debate

2009-12-29T08:37:00.000-08:00

I have an ongoing debate floating around in my head;

What is the difference between 'Clothing' and 'Fashion'? Are they different? Are they the same?

When one considers those two subjects, the obvious thought (to me anyway) would be "Well, aren't they the same?" I always thought so. Seeing as even simple clothing must be 'fashioned' in the sense of design and creation, it would seem clear to me that even a plain T-shirt is 'Fashion'.

I spent 3 decades doing alterations and have worked on every type of garment that exists. Doing alterations is a great way to learn about garment construction. I have altered both low and high end bridal gowns, inexpensive suits and Armani tuxes, plain sundresses and formal gowns, and everything in between. What I have learned is that construction techniques between the extremes aren't all that much different. What IS different is the fabrics involved as well as the occasional addition of under-structure. But does adding an additional lining or shoulder pad make it fashion or just more expensive?

I recently watched the reality show Project Runway. It is a competition for unknown fashion designers. The competitors are given challenges by the hosts that stretch their imaginations and skills in regard to designing items that 'have never been seen before'. What was interesting to me was the judges comments. On one particular program the host commented to the competing designer in regard to an outfit, "This is clothing not fashion." It was a statement washed in disappointment. It got me thinking again about this difference between them and wondered if there are official definitions of the two. I dug out my dictionary and it clarified Nothing. Clothing is defined as "clothes. garments. wearing apparel". Fashion is defined as "the current style of dress. something fashionable." Based on these definitions I would have to conclude that fashion is whatever happens to be trendy for the moment. This, in my mind anyway, makes it very ambiguous. I must draw the conclusion that fashion is, like beauty, in the eye of the beholder. I have also concluded that I have a much stronger affinity towards designing and creating 'Clothing'.

Clothing is the stuff of daily life. I love to clothe people. I am not interested in creating garments that are worn for a season and then tossed aside because they are 'out'. My desire is to create items that have no trend, no era or fad-based period. I want to create classic clothing that we wear today that we can see in photos in years to come and still say "I loved wearing that jacket! *or sweater or wrap or skirt or......*". It is also my goal to make said items so well that we can also say, "And I STILL have it and wear it!"

So, those are my thoughts on the Great Debate. I have finally drawn my conclusions. Right or wrong, it doesn't matter. I will keep on designing and sewing my trendless, fadless, classic items for us all to wear. To put it simply, we don't all require fashion in our lives but we do all require clothing. I sense my attitude would be disappointing to the judges on Project Runway but after all, Somebody has to design the stuff that most of us wear everyday. I am glad to have a part in this.

Please visit my website and check out my current designs. They are all Clothing. Comfortable, one-of-a-kind, easy to wear classics. Perfect for a day like today..... and tomorrow.... and beyond.

www.MLOriginals.com